Free local guide
Madrid without the bullshit.
Where madrileños actually eat, drink and hang out, plus the little bits of Spanish that turn you from tourist into guest.
Free PDF, opens right away. Plus a few emails with my Madrid stories. Adiós anytime.
What’s inside
The real barsThe ones with napkins on the floor (trust me, that’s a good sign). Croquetas, tortilla, vermut de grifo.
4 cool barriosLa Latina, Malasaña, Chueca and Lavapiés: what each one is really like and where to go.
Spanish you’ll useReady-made lines for every stop: order a caña, ask for a recommendation, survive El Rastro.
Two easy routesA one-day walk through the centre and a Sunday treasure hunt. Clickable maps included.
Spanish SOSFor when the waiter talks fast and your brain goes blank at the barra.
Parks & chillRetiro, Madrid Río and the art of lying on the grass like a local.
One little question changes your trip
¿Qué me recomiendas? → What do you recommend?
Say it once and suddenly someone is telling you about their favourite tortilla.
Say it once and suddenly someone is telling you about their favourite tortilla.
Hi, I’m Monica, your amiga from Madrid
I’m a bit rara. I collect anecdotes, strange traditions and the stories madrileños tell after dos vinos. I’ve been teaching Spanish to foreigners for more than ten years, so I know exactly which few phrases get you a real conversation instead of a menu in English.
Get the free guide →Madrid rule: if you’re not elbow to elbow and stepping on napkins… you’re not really tapear-ing.
— Monica Bernabe Perez